Porthgwidden to Nanjizal: Song of the Sea
Do you ever find that the most remote, unspoilt places, tend to be the most beautiful? My friend Michael (and former housemate of two years) came to visit me in Cornwall for three days, and we both promised each other that we would embark on a real ‘off the beaten track’ adventure during his time in the Kern. Nanjizal had been on my radar for a long time, so it was the perfect opportunity to grab our cameras and head to the very end of Cornwall.
I’d planned to visit Nanjizal time and time again but had always bailed at the last hurdle due to the beach being so far away from home (Truro.) Nanjizal is located on the Penwith coastline, a stretch of coastline close to Lands End in the west of Cornwall.
After a lot of research, Michael and I decided to beat the early morning traffic and make our way to Porthgwarra, a relatively unknown cove, featured regularly on Poldark, a BBC drama based in Cornwall. It took us over an hour to reach Porthgwarra by car - normally it would take 50 minutes but the summer and post COVID traffic was carnage. If you decide to visit Porthgwarra, then please be aware that the local roads are extremely tight. If you’ve been to Porthcurno then they’ll know what west Cornwall roads are like, but the roads to Porthgwarra are genuinely one car wide. If you get stuck, you’re stuck.
Porthgwarra, Cornwall
Porthgwarra is genuinely the prettiest, secluded cove that I have ever stepped foot on. We parked in the small village carpark for the day (£5) and grabbed two cappuccinos from the local cafe. A perfect way to start our adventure.
There are a couple of options when it comes to reaching Nanjizal - you can either park at Porthgwarra or Lands End and walk the rest of the way. We decided to keep away from the tourist hotspot - it was not a day for Lands End.
I fell in love with Porthgwarra. I'm not surprised why the Poldark filming crew decided to use it as one of the main locations in the drama series. We climbed up the rocks to the left-hand side of the beach to take some photos and were both amazed at how quiet the cove was, considering the chaotic crowds around the rest of Cornwall. Porthgwarra’s most interesting feature is the tunnel that runs through part of the main cliff. The first tunnel was dug by tin miners from St Just to give farmers horse-and-cart access to the beach. The second tunnel was built to give fishermen access ‘tidal 'hulleys' built in the rocks to store shellfish.
The coast path between Porthgwarra and Nanjizal
It took us approximately an hour to walk to Nanjizal from Porthgwarra, however, it would have taken us a shorter amount of time if I didn't stop at every photo opportunity. I can honestly say that this part of the coast is absolutely incredible and potentially one of the best scenic walks in Cornwall.
Michael and I were completely fascinated by the Penwith coast rock formation. After a long debate over a cornish pasty (pre-bought from Rowes) we came to the conclusion that the rock formation must be blamed on the Cornish giants (myths & legends for you.)
We came across several coves on our journey to Nanjizal. Michael is a pro when it comes to following maps (unlike myself) so he was able to provide the name of each cove - my favourite being, Pendower Cove, pictured below. The water along the Penwith coast looked absolutely incredible - whether the turquoise water was caused by less pollution during lockdown or the beautiful weather, the water looked like something straight out of the Conde Nast Traveler Caribbean pages.
Nanjizal, home to the Song of the Sea
After an hour of walking, we finally arrived at our destination - Nanjizal. Like I'd mentioned at the beginning of this post, Nanjizal had been on my radar for years. I'd seen photos of Nanjizal on Instagram but seeing the beach with my own eyes was beyond impressive.
We first spotted Nanjizal from around the corner - Michael didn't even have to check his map. It wasn't the white sand, but the intense change in sea colour that made us realise that we had finally reached our final destination. I've never seen such incredible, clear turquoise water before. You’ll see what I mean when you look at the photos below.
Nanjizal is best known for the large slit pathway that the sea has worn through the cliffs. An unbelievable geological rock formation, known as the 'Song of the Sea.' At certain times throughout the year, the sun aligns perfectly with the rock arch, creating a spectacle as the light shines through the arch.
Nanjizal truly blew me away - in fact, the whole day was incredible. My expectations were extremely high but somehow, they were met. It was the type of day that I will remember for a very, very long time. I’m so lucky to call this corner of the UK home.
